Palermo T-shirts

Palermo is easily my favorite Italian city. It's dynamic, bustling, multilayered...and the people here seem determined to reclaim their rightful place on travelers' lists of "must visit" Italian cities. The Sicilians are some of the friendliest and warmest people anywhere. You spend 5 minutes in Palermo and realize how charming they can be!

It's a city of dense urbanity but at the same time it has gorgeous palm-filled parks all over the place. On my first visit, as soon as I stepped off the train I noticed a different atmosphere from what I was used to in the North. People seemed less hurried, more engaging...the taxi driver chatted with me, cheerfully tolerating my crude Italian, and then sang himself a song as we drove the rest of the way to the hotel. When words are few because of a language barrier, there are lots of smiles and hand gestures.

Before visiting Palermo, I had always read that it represented a mixture of cultural influences from the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, and many other Mediterranean peoples. After all, Sicily is smack dab in the middle of the Mediterranean so the history is long and tumultous, conquerors arriving in waves across the millenia. I definitely noticed reminders of this throughout my trip in the food, the faces of the people, and the traditions that have been handed down for centuries.

When the Greeks arrived here in ancient times, they were impressed with the fertility of the land, the agreeable climate, and its strategic position. They wasted no time in setting up colonies that soon became some of the most prosperous in the Greek world. To this day you can see the tremendous architecture they left behind in places like Siracusa or Agrigento, where the temples are well preserved and the surrounding countryside is sublime.

In the ninth century, Arabs came here and created a prosperous time when Palermo's beauty and grand architecture was said to rival Baghdad in it's splendor. They built palaces, bubbling fountains, and gardens of palm trees and exotic plants. To this day, Palermo is filled with lush parks of palms and flowers, so sightseeing is a special pleasure. An interesting fact I once read is that the Arabs, upon discovering winter snow on the slopes of Mt. Etna, made the world's first flavored ices. The modern version is called "granita" by the Sicilians, and you should try some instead of ice cream, because its really refreshing and delicious.

One of the most enjoyable things to do in Palermo is simply to share a hearty meal with friends, because this city is a food lover's paradise. Eating some authentic Sicilian food in Palermo is something everybody needs to do at least once in their lives. Everything just tastes delicious, as if the ingredients were picked from the vine that same day (and they very well may have been)! It's also great for vegetarians like myself, who will never go hungry here. The range of dishes prepared with fresh vegetables is endless.

The Cloister of Monreale

Anyone who visits Palermo should plan a day trip to Mondello, an historic seaside resort just outside of the city. Not only is the beach gorgeous, with rows of palm trees and clear turquoise water, but there's also eateries along the waterfront promenade where you can enjoy loads of inexpensive Sicilian treats. I'm getting hungry just thinking about it. Sampling the local croquettes is a must, as well as the fried eggplant. Getting there is quick and easy... there's a bus from central Palermo that will whisk you there in no time. The entire ride is pleasant, as you pass through leafy, attractive Palermo neighborhoods.

There's another day trip that anyone visiting Palermo shouldn't miss, and that's to the town of Monreale, where there's a magnificent cathedral and cloisters famous throughout the world for their combination of Arab and European architecture.

Monreale is located in a fertile plain between mountains and sea, so the natural beauty of the place is a knock out. Visiting the cathedral complex is like stepping back through centuries, to a time when Sicily was a world center of great importance. The decoration is lavish and cross-cultural, borrowing from the various styles known to the Mediterranean world at the time. Byzantine style mosaics, Norman motifs, Arab arches...they all combine to form a rich symphony of styles. Be ready to take a lot of pictures.

The harbor of Palermo

The waterfront in Palermo is another spot to hit, with several parks to enjoy such as Villa Giulia and the Botanical Gardens. You'll see an amazingly broad collection of subtropical plants, flowers and trees. Later, you might take an evening walk along the nearby waterfront, where you'll find a scene of colorful fishing boats and locals who have come out to enjoy the relaxing promenade or exercise along the water.

One thing is true about any visit to Palermo...it will be a discovery of delicious food, friendly and beautiful people, and a saucy, soulful culture. I'm already looking forward to visiting Palermo again, so I can discover some more of the fascinating layers this city has to offer.