Rhodes T-shirts

The Old Town of Rhodes and harbor

It was exciting for me to arrive in Rhodes for the first time, because I had already read so much about this island. It's reputed to be a perfect combination of sun, sea, and picturesque towns. I stepped off the plane and noticed the green forested hillsides rising near the airport. I had been visiting several Cycladic islands, which by August have been mostly baked to a golden crisp, so this vision of greenery was something different. My plan was to spend two days in Rhodes Town, at the northern tip of the island, followed by three days in Lindos, the relaxing little seaside village in the south.

The taxi from the airport was 12 euros and dropped me off at my hotel, located on Orfanidou Street in the new part of the city. (Rhodes is divided between the newer city and the Old Town, which is entirely inside encircling medieval walls) It was evening and thousands of people were out in the streets...going to bars and clubs, sitting in outdoor restaurants, and enjoying the generally festive atmosphere that pervades the island during the summer months. My first impression was that Rhodes offers every single thing a tourist would ever need. Within a two minute walk from my hotel there were beaches, tons of restaurants, nightclubs, internet cafés, stores, and anything else I could think of. Yet still the feeling was distinctly that of a Greek island; flowering trees and bougainvillea along the streets, everyone eating at outside tables, and a casual, friendly vibe.

The New Market

First I wanted to head to the Old Town and see what all the hoopla was about. Walking along the harbor, the  large structure of the New Market came into view, recognizable from the large domed centerpiece and Arab style arches. All along the front of the building, there are outdoor restaurants. If you walk through one of the entries there's a large courtyard inside, lined with small shops selling jewelry and tourist merchandise. Behind the building, the municipal buses leave for various points around the island.

The Old Town of Rhodes

The fortifications of Rhodes Old Town

Continuing onward, I approached the town walls and caught sight of the Knights Castle reigning above the whole scene. I was excited to explore what was waiting for me behind those ancient stone walls. I passed through one of the entry gates and saw what looked like a city well preserved from another era, yet offering all the modern conveniences of the 21st century. Upon entering the old town you'll immediately feel through your shoes that the streets are made of small rounded pebbles set into the ground, often in patterns. The entire area inside the walls has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage City, notable for being one of the largest intact medieval towns in Europe.

Cars aren't allowed in the Old Town during the warm months. The streets are reserved for pedestrians ambling between outdoor restaurants and shops. It's a delight to explore the maze of small streets lined with an eclectic mix of buildings that date from various periods of Rhodes' long history. The most dominant structure is the Castle of the Knights, which now houses a museum on the lower level with artifacts from Rhodes' long history. Rooms on the upper levels are restored with furnishings in the medieval style, beautiful floor mosaics, and notable works of art.

Sokratous Street

Once you start walking around the town, it will seem like all the roads eventually lead you back around to Sokratous Street, a main thoroughfare lined with shops selling craft items and souvenirs. The feeling is somewhat reminiscent of an Turkish bazaar. A good thing to do is go to the top of the clock tower, located near the Knights Castle, to get a panoramic view of the whole town stretching below you. It costs something like 4 Euros to go to the top, but you get a pass for a cocktail in the establishment next door, so it's a good deal.

The festive atmosphere in the Old Town extends well into the evening, but late night activity has its hub on Orfanidou Street in the new town, unofficially called "Bar Street". There are dozens of nightclubs and bars along its length, most of them with fronts that open to the street with people spilling out. Crowds of visitors pack the length of it as they pass from one bar to the next, or just stand around hooking up with each other. You'll find good DJs and even live bands at the larger venues, so walking down the street is like moving the dial across a radio, getting a brief sample of all kinds of music as you move forward.

Kallithea- a chic alternative to the larger beaches

On my first full day in Rhodes I decided to take a bus to a popular swimming cove on the East coast, called Kallithea. Although there are beaches along the shore in Rhodes Town, just a block or so from my hotel, the wind on the west side of the island makes the water rougher there, so I prefer the east coast where the sea is calm and crystal clear. Beaches and swimming coves line the coastline, but one in particular is worth a special visit...Kallithea. The landscape, sea, and architecture form a special combination.

Turquoise water in the cove at Kallithea

The water at Kallithea is famous for its clarity and turquoise hue. Lot's of snorkelers and divers go there. The bus ride is only about 15 minutes from Rhodes Town and the bus driver announces each stop in English, so don't worry about missing it.

Getting off the bus, you just walk toward the sea and in two minutes you'll see the curving white arches that mark the entrance to the swimming area and spa. Here's a tip: there's always a food truck parked in the area before the entrance, with a guy inside who will make you a fresh, delicious sandwich with your choice of ingredients, for just a few Euros. You can carry it down to the water and have a relaxing lunch ready as soon as you get hungry, without any fuss. Or, there's a stylish taverna to grab some food or drinks.

When you approach the entrance there's an attractive water fountain and a trellised walkway that leads down to the sea. Descending some steps, you see a domed structure surrounded by palm trees, where the spa waters use to fill the covered seating area. It's dry nowadays, but still a nice place to sit in the shade or snap a few pictures. Directly beyond is the small beach, and beyond that some areas along both sides of the cove where people sunbathe and swim. When I returned two years ago, the entire area had been renovated. A comfortable bar/restaurant is embedded into the rocky ledge on the side of the cove, and on the hill above is a nicely renovated spa building. Anyone visiting Kallithea should take the short walk over the hill and go into this building for a sublime experience.

It's a round structure with some smaller buildings attached, all built in a manner that's very congruous with the landscape. Inside, you can walk around, look at some art, or have a rest on one of the benches that overlook the sparkling sea. Don't miss the film stills and historical photos they have hanging on the walls, showing the place during it's glamorous heyday of the 1920's, when wealthy travelers and celebrities escaped here.

Nowadays it's an exotic, boutique-sized alternative to the larger beaches. Just fifteen kilometers from Rhodes Town, Kallithea is low key and relaxing. Mainly, it's gorgeous...the combination of clear water, groovy spa architecture, and palm trees make it feel decadent and far-away.

The coasts of Rhodes are lined with beach after beach, so it's really a matter of personal taste which one you choose. One of the most popular beaches is Faliraki, a long sweep of sand only 1 km south of Kallithea, on the same bus that I previously mentioned. Faliraki has Europe's largest water park, an amusement park, and a mind boggling range of eating and drinking establishments. It's a large, busy beach. If you're looking for tranquility, steer yourself instead to one of the more secluded beaches. That's one of the great things about Rhodes... you can always go a short distance away from the main attractions and find a place to completely escape any crowds.

Lindos main beach

Heading down to Lindos

Lindos is my favorite place in Rhodes. People who vacation in Lindos return year after year. The reasons are simple: a lovely village, perfect sand beach, crystal clear water, nightlife, and great food. The village climbs the slopes of the hill, until reaching an acropolis with ruins that include an ancient temple dedicated to Athena. The main beach has several tavernas with delicious food, just steps away from your spot on the sand.

After 9 pm, most of the Lindos day trippers have gone, and the village is left to the locals and the people staying in town overnight. Really nice restaurants and nightclubs open their doors, and there's the perfect amount of people walking around to make it lively yet not overcrowded. It's pure holiday heaven.